Saturday, July 30, 2011

Back Post: : Thursday, July 29,2011 : Sailing to Tenant's Harbor

We left Long Cove on Thursday( I made a mistake; We left Boothbay on Wed. not Tuesday)) with beautiful morning skies and winds that filled in nicely from the S-SE from 8 to 12 knots. Under full sail from 10:30- 14:30 past Old Man's Ledge with Monhegan Island coming into better view. Monhegan is the Island where the Wyeth family summered and paintied for some 20 years. As I understand there is no where to anchor or moor so a ferry for the day or to stay a night or 2 is the only way to truly see the Island. It is 1.7 miles long and about .5 mile wide with walking trails and a couple Inns. After Lunch ,  we rounded Old Man's ledge and had just come up to  our waypoint off Old Cilley ledge at 1320 when we were looking close starboard and saw a huge humpback whale do a gentle roll along side us! I imagine she came over to see what we were as we were sailing at about 5 knots. She rolled again gently , and we could see that she was about as long as our 36 foot vessel! She rolled 4 times then never surfaced again. I ran D down stairs to turn on the gentle Sirius station as we have heard whales like music but she had another plan.
At last our first whale sighting from the quiet  of our own cockpit and to think we both were looking right where she surfaced just 30 ft away- it was a miracle! I knew the day was special as we sailed but had no idea there was a "whale more" to come!
Sadly at 1430, we rolled in the sails as we could not carry them into Tenant's Harbor. After passing safely thru about 1000 fluorescent lobster buoys (which were really a pretty sight with the afternoon sun shining on them.) We picked up a free mooring which belongs to a friend we met in boothbay. Herb and Cathy Stackhouse , (formerly of Pensacola now based in Washington, Georgia) bought a cottage on Sprucehead Island just the next village over from Tenant's. They picked us up and we drove the short 10 miles down to Port Clyde where the Monhegan ferry departs. I was afraid it would not have much character since they have cars parked there  for overnight ferry travelers but there was only one small lot that by no menas marred the town. Ate at the Dip Net that is newly owned by one of the LL BEan grandaughters. Great Fish and visit .
Friday morning after pancakes and sausage on board, we went ashore for some jogging and showers at the Lyman-Morse Yacht center. Then to Herb and Cathy's cottage that evening for Grilled Halibut steaks that were out of this world good! Their cottage is perfectly Maine and has a 200 degree view of Seal Bay and False Whitehead Harbor! Unbelievable! Then back to the boat just before the predicted light rain which fell nearly all night. Awoke to dry, clearing skies. Relaxing  in Maine. We expect to shove off for Rockland in the next day or 2 to receive mail.

Cindra, David and Lulu, too

Back post: Tuesday, July 27, 2011 :Heading for Long Cove off Muscongus Bay

We have been with patchy AT&T service since leaving Boothbay on Tuesday so I will go back to catch you up!
We left Boothbay Harbor under beautiful skies with 1-2 foot seas but with winds so light we couldn't carry the sails. We motored the short 14 miles to Long Cove to take a free mooring and see Bill and Ellen Addison who have a sweet old family (3 generations) cottage on Long Cove. They are members once again of Christ Church! We arrived just after lunch and then were treated to a land tour of South Bristol, Christmas Cove, Gamage Yacht Harbor, Fort Wm Henry on the Damariscotta River and Pemaquid Lighthouse on Pemaquid Point and Shaw's Seafood Restaurant on New Harbor for dinner. We really enjoyed our visit and the night on Long Cove was quiet with only one lobsterman starting his engine long after our rising at 8am! The sound of the water lapping on the nearby rocky beach was our bedtime lullaby.


Sunday, July 24, 2011

We love it here, but I guess we should go east!

We departed Biddeford Pool with it's Tiny 4 room clubhouse for Boothbay Harbor Maine. I was wondering how it would be with more activity in the harbor- I was getting used to quiet small harbors.
The wind was on our stern and very light so we had t
Our first day with very little sailing. We kept the main out most of the day for stabilization. We passed the spectacular Sequin island, Maine. You must google this island as it is mammoth in height and holds the last lighthouses with a fresnel lens. The others have been changed out to solar, but the people petitioned the coast guard to leave this one as it is very significant even in navigation today and it needs a bright light not a solar one that may not shine strongly all the time. You must google it for a photo!! It is a very old light asGeorge Washington signed the deed for the land a d it has held a light I bieve since the late 1700s.
We arrived into Boothbay Harbor around 2:30 and found them to be having an unusually hot afternoon- 95! it cooled down at 7pm and has been nice ever since then.
The harbor is smaller and quieter than either of us expected. It offers 20 us restaurants and neat locally owned nice shops and galleries and a free trolley that will take you to the large grocery a few miles away and it circles every 30 minutes. The marina loaned us a car to drive 4 miles to the campground to fill our spare propane tank.

I called Dondy and Tom Buckley from Christ church and found that 3 other couples from Christ Church were also vacationing here this week! We met the Boneys, the carltons,
the Modjeskis at The Buckleys for dinner last night and boy were they surprised to see us!
We are enjoying the lobster and Haddock!
After an adjustment on the autopilot, we will travel just 12 miles east to Long Cove where Bill Addison has a summer cottage And a mooring ball! We look forward to meeting his wife- they are also members of Christ Church.This morning, We enjoyed a pancake breakfast onboard with Muffet and Ed Crowell who drove over from Harrison, Me.
Time to turn in as the lobstermen can't lobster on Sundays so they will be raring to go tomorrow, Monday.

Encountering Wildlife

I have been meaning to tell you while we did not make eye contact with a whale as of yet, we were surrounded by a school of dolphin half way from Gloucester to the Isle of ShoAls! D. Had seen some ripples on the water when the wind grew light then he exclaimed a few minutes later"look!" I saw the long, lean bodies of porpoise 4 - 8 feet below the surface of the wAter about to swim under the boat and others following close behind. Their long, lean bodies with white tummies were so amazing! They stayed with us a few moments then traveled on to the south. Then just 5 miles from
The Isle of Shoals a single grey seal surfaced 20 yards
Away and swam along near us before disappearing.
Then on the way to Biddeford we encountered some 40 black flies over the course of the day they landed on board and wanted to make us their lunch and dinner. We swatted flies til they were all lying dead in the cockpit. this encounter was not as great as the dolphin and seal sightings, but nothing is perfect.

Too beautiful to spend time writing!

This Maine country is so wonderful!
We did indeed have silence with our coffee on Wed. Once we felt the fog/ haze was navigable, we left Isle of Shoals for the mainland, Biddeford Pool Maine about 38 miles east as they say. Up here you are either going "down east" (which is really up northeast)or you are going south.

We had a good day of sailing and entered the more narrow entrance to Wood Island Harbor between Wood island and the neck. We had reserved a mooring that morning and were glad to know we would have a snug spot. We did make note of where others anchored for future visits. The pool is like a pond that nearly empties to a puddle at low tide! Only small craft in there. First time I have ever gone forward to pick up the tether to a mooring to find the lines running with the current opposite the 12 knot breeze! Made 3 passes and I finally got it!I have a patient husband.
The town is really a few B&Bs, grocery/restaurant with the most fabulous views of the rocky islands and moored boats, and a shop or 2. Great walking past well kept summer cottages, private golf club where they walk and carry their clubs
And a simple old Episcopal church high on a hill with a view of the entire neck and waterways.Also enjoyed walking an Audubon trail out to east point that overlooked our entrance from the Atlantic- huge rocky cliffs with waves crashing on them and the sound of the ocean waves was so loud and left me in awe.
Lynda and Andy Creed were at their cabin in New Hampshire so the drove over and met us for lunch! It was so good to see good friends. we make acquaintances
But spend alot of time on our own so seeing them was real therapy! Thank you Lynda and Andywe departed Friday for a 36 mile sail up to Boothbay Harbor.

alot of to
E on our own.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

So close but no introduction

Alas, we sailed through Cape Cod Bay with whales nearby yet none surfaced close to us. Truth be told, we were quite busy tending sails, watching for lobster pots floating in the water especially on the port side behind the jib. Several whale watching boats powered thru the Cape from Boston. If we had not had such a good many miles to get to Gloucester, we would have sailed further east to Stellwagen Banks where the whale watchers go.
They were there. we were there, but no introduction.
The last half of the day was a motor sail as the wind was on our nose, but it became more favorable and the wind increased so that we nearly sailed into Gloucester Harbor.
We called the harbormasters Ofc to arrange to take a mooring as close to town as possible. We were directed past red marker 10 just past Ten Pound Island. We picked one up and found out we had been misdirected and were on a private mooring. The Beneteau on the mooring next door said the owners boat was hauled out for some reason and that we might just stay on it for the weekend so we did! We enjoyed the town and hunting and finding sea glass on Ten Pound Island.
Sunday we did laundry and hiked a short way to a Connolly Seafood Mkt. Where we got 4 lobster for $24!!
We boiled them all and had plenty for Lobster salad the next day.
We took the local bus to Rockport, the famous art colony for lunch one day. The bus driver knew everyone along the roads route, and he honked and waved to them all. He gave us tips and named every love cove we passed. Just 40 mes from Boston and all this lovely water and cool temps!

We departed Gloucester this morning and arrived at the Isle of Shoals in MAINE waters! We are so excited to be in Maine! These 7-8 islands are 6 miles from Portsmith, New Ha
Lahore 6 miles away due west.
The word shoals also means "schools" as in schools of codfish which were in abundance in the early days when this was an English cony. It was the most valuable to the Crown because of it abundant schools or shoals of cod.
A lovely night with only 28 drawbacks... Three boats arrived with 28 middle schoolers for an overnight. 28 kids all trying to out talk the other. Oh well, maybe they will sleep in and we can have coffee in the cockpit to utter sence in the morning.

Friday, July 15, 2011

Provincetown,Mass. at the tip of Cape Cod

Good Morning!
Two days ago from half way across Cape Cod Bay(10 miles out) we saw the usual look of distant land and one lone vertical object. Surely a lighthouse, I thought. Once in the harbor we knew it was not a lighthouse, but some special tower. It was the Pilgrim monument erected to commemorate the first landing of the pilgrims here in 1620. It rises 252 feet and still is the tallest all-granite structure in the US. The first cornerstone was laid in 1907 by Pres Roosevelt and dedicated by Pres Taft in 1910. I climbed the tower not once but twice as I needed a good workout after sitting on the boat. It's not a bad climb as it has 116 steps and 60 ramps, and it only took me 5 mins to get to the top. The view of the harbor and the town as well as the natural seashore was worth the effort!

We enjoyed reminiscing about our first trip here with Sandra and Inge Holman some 15 or so years ago. We had met them in Kittery, Me. And traveled with them for a long weekend. It was October, and had timed our visit miraculously with the height of color! That visit is probably what has driven me this far on Second Wind. The water,majestic lighthouses and small towns are calling me back. We revisited the Lobster pot Restaurant last night and while some of the town has changed the food at the L. Pot has not. Wonderfully fresh! Thank you, Sandra and Inge for your most notable gift: generosity.
Last night we saw the moonrise and this morning I saw it set. Being this close to creation and seeing those special movements which occur and change quite quickly is what I love about this time inboard.
We leave shortly for Gloucester on the mainland. We expect to see a humpback whale as they tell us you only need a little luck , and we have more than that I feel.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

We love Cape Cod!

Hello to all!
We had a nice stay in beautiful Redbrook Harbor and enjoyed a nice lunch with Gene and Christine. Christine had packed us a bottle of Fume Blanc which we had with the last 4 filets of Blk Sea Bass caught on lobster traps at Cutty Hunk.
Fantastic fish!
Monday we sailed on to Onset Bay . How nice it was without the weekenders on the water!
Onset is lovely with onset island and Wicket Island both are tall clumping islands with thick vegetation and traditional cottages. From the town park high on a hill you get the best view of the beaches sweeping the shore in every cove, the islands and moored boats below! Every bit as pretty as most of Martha's Vineyd!
Great gluten free food at The fresh Food Cafe where Michelle gave me a few tips.
We received mail from home and our dear friend, Jim Matthews sent us a pkg from Beneteau!
After 2 great days at anchor, we pulled up anchor at 0630 this morning and motored out the winding channel and entered the cape cod canal with favorable current. At 1800 rpm we made 9.5 knots of boat speed- 4 knots of which were current!

And now after exiting the canal at 0745 we are under full sail no engine with 13 knots of wind in route for Provincetown!Glorious!! We visited here once before with Sandra and Inge Holman 15 years ago. Sunny and clear!

Cindra and David and Lulu

We are watching for right whales . Just heard someone on radio who is tagging whales.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Sailing on Naragansett Sound and Buzzards Bay

Just a brief post to tell you where we are in our voyage.

After leaving Sag Harbor last Tuesday we sailed to Block Island in beautiful weather, but the following day began hopeful, but soon became dreary and taxing as a heavy blanket of fog settled over Buzzards Bay all the way to the Cape.

We did arrive safely to Cutty Hunk Island on Wed. Where we met up with gene Nd Christine Reddick on board their I.P. "Dream Catcher" and Mike and Julie Sneath on board their newly purchased I.P.: "walkabout". Both couples are from Pcola. We enjoyed 2 nights with them moored in Cutty Hunk the first in the chain of the Elizabeth Islands. It is one of my favorite places because of it's simple elegance.

Horace and Marla Garfield (whom we met at D's cousins Ky Derby weekend in Louisville in 06)
Have a home that was once a 2 lane bowling alley on Cutty H. It sits high on the hill overlooking Vineyard Sound and on a clear day you can see martha's Vineyard and the famous bluff of Gay Head now referred to by it's Indian name:Aquinnah.we enjoyed a cold drink on their patio on night while there.
Fresh lobster and Black sea bass were treats brought in by Capt fresh and so delicious.

Yesterday, we sailed east to Hadley's Harbor just off Woods Hole where we had a beautiful anchorage for the night in view of a cedar shingled home owned by the Malcolm Forbes family. This is probably our favorite anchorage of all.

Leaving in a moment for a short sail to Redbrook Harbor on the southside of Cape Cod where we will go ashore with the Reddicks to see Kingman Marina where they keep Dream Catcher.

Monday, July 4, 2011

If you can't beat'em, move your boat!

We awoke early, as usual, yesterday to catch a cab to Sag Harbor for the day where we planned to go to Christ Church Sag Harbor and see some on the
Men's wimbledon final. We decided to call the cab and touch base. When he said fare for 2 one way to 7 miles to Sag Harbor would be $50, we nearly choked! So we decided to pick up anchor and sail the 10 miles and spend the$ on a mooring for the night. We are glad we did as the town begins right at the foot of the dock and the atmosphere is totally diff. From East Hampton! Sag has no chain gift shops they are all locally owned and the feel is so "Un- Hampton" as they call it. The people are more relaxed, cars are bumper to bumper on the main streets but we didn't hear a single string of cuss words or see any near brawls as we did in East Hampton, repeatedly! The cars gladly let people cross at any corner! We are so glad we came! After a few hours walking and enjoying the whaling museum we took in a movie: The Trip in the Tiny theater on Main. We awaken to a quiet harbor thick with fog. Unbelievable, you can bear a pin drop!
We move east tomorrow for the last stretch before the Cape Cod canal.
Happy 4th!
Cindra and David

Celebrating our independence in East Hampton and Sag Harbor

Happy fourth of July!
We arrived into Three Mile Harbor located on the north east end of Long Island on Friday. It is a quiet place with homes bordering one side and nature ruling the other. We anchored easily and toasted to our well deserved rest having traveled daily for 3 days. The mooring balls rent for $70 a night so everytime we drop our anchor we feel like a deposit just went into our account! AFter the quietest night yet at anchor, we dinghied in for the day. The town dock is really just a small floating dinghy dock alongside the boat launch not even blessed with a sign. No person or direction even to town! We quickly made friends with another couple just arriving by dinghy and jumped into a cab he had called earlier to go the 3 short miles to East Hampton. The couple were from conn. And were raving about the east hampton beach as they were heading there. We got out in the city center and walked the bustling streets to see the old wind mill, Guild Hall, Hook Pond and other historic buildings. The town was an English settlement in 1628 that focused on farming. The people lived in the village and went out to different plots of land surrounding to farm. It is nice rolling pasture land. The shops are posh and the homes most all look like Ina 's: shingle siding white trim and 200 blue hydrangeas in the yard! we didn't see anyone famous but enjoyed rubbing elbows as we lunched and shopped. We walked and walked and even waked back toward the boat with a few groceries but after 2 miles stuck our thumbs out for a ride. A cute gal that looked like Anne Margaret spoke to us at the farmstand and agreed to give us a ride.she had graduated from U of F if you can believe it tho was a Long Islander.The wonderful farmstand with permanent buildings within 1 mile of the harbor has fresh seafood, amazingly rich colored vegetables and fruits and baked goods. If I had it to do again I would go there first But we didn't know what it had to offer as our cabbie was a typical New Yorker: just pay me and don't expect me to be your tour guide! We pan fried fresh halibut for dinner which was very fresh!

NY City here we come!!

D had studied the Bible of cruising the northeast:Eldridge's Guide to tides and current to plan our trip. We enter from The southeast thru Lower Bay, and once under the Ft Wadsworth Bridge (to Staten Island), we enter the narrows, pass the Battery enter the East River and continue past Roosevelt to . The East river is only 1 of 2 rivers in the U.S. That has 2 mouths. Currents ebbing and flooding must be timed so to make your passage safely and efficiently. One times arrival at these different points so that the current helps you or doesn't hurt your speed much. Our new AIS receiver that identifies large vessels and their courses showed so many parked vessels that we had to disengage it in order to see the route onthe chartplotter! Most ships were anchored and the activity was only from ferries.
We had 10-18 knots of favorable wind thru the day so we were cool and comfortable tho surrounded by skyscrapers . We ended the day strong with 18 knots of wind on a reach to Manhasset Bay: city of Port Washington on Long Island. We took a free town mooring and enjoyed a new recipe of blueberry salsa! If you like cilantro, lemon, red bell pepper, jalapeƱos then you will love this with chips!

Thursday, june 30
Up to A beautiful sunrise and a leisurely breakfast. We've decided to travel on thinking about Maine! To come. Underway at 10:30 in route to Port Jefferson, Long Island N.Y. Winds started out lih
Ghy but filled in at 1200: 13 kn from The north.
Speed 6.5 knots with 1 kn of favorable current. D is wearing his Indian Jpnes hat! Maybe a photo will be forthcoming as I downloaded an apication for the iPhone. I have no idea what I am doing ectronically,but if you ask me about blueberry ssa I know it all!

Friday, July 1, 2011

Blogspot goes haywire

Hello y'all,
We are currently underway with 2 kn of favorable current but very light winds under sunny skies in Long Island Sound enroute to Three Mile Harbor next to Sag Harbor and only 3 miles from East Hampton where the Barefoot Contessa has a cafe and estate where I believe she tapes her cooking shows. breath! I know my writing skills are atrocious so to all my newspaper design professors and English teachers, I greatly apologize.

I would like to ask for forgiveness for posting a piece that was full of typos! Blogspot would not let me edit and at times changes what I am trying to spell!! It's worse than someone talking when you are talking!
At this time, I am unable to edit a post. I have been trying all day with nothing but frustration to show. Since frustration is not what I signed up for on this cruise, I may have to publish another crazy spelled post.
I will give it a lil while longer then post anyway.
"Letting go of frustration on the high seas"